This is different than making a matrix of a dozen door or drawer faces line up across a room. Your doors and drawer face alignments only have to look good within the context of one opening at a time. Once you start doing flush inset you will discover some other advantages. Figure out what looks good then get good at reproducing that. The important thing is to develop a system for your math. This way you can interchange Blum Tandem slides with Accuride Side Mount slides. The holes for our drawer slides always situate 37 mm from the top side of the bottom face frame element. This is also the number that drives everything else. This is a percentage that works well with counters that are 36-37 or 38 inches tall. Note that the top drawer is typically 15% of the overall floor to counter height. Where we use 57 mm for a shaker door we switch to 64mm for an ogee door. Once you figure them out for a particular genre of cabinetry you can focus on another issue. Good proportions are something that sneak up on you and make you feel good about being in the room. In every case the bottom rail on the door is heavier than the top rail. Mullions are smaller than stiles and muntins are smaller than mullions. Stiles are the same size as bottom rails. Note that the size of the individual elements change based on where they situate on the face frame. If we have a shaker style project these are our typical proportions. The dimensions for the cabinets are established parametrically. It's all based on rules and the rules change based upon conditions. If you change the countertop height, the rest of math is upgraded automatically. We've written some software that chases a lot of this math for us. We have some really simple systems for doing this. About half of these jobs have butt hinges and the other half are a combination of Blum and Salice. Our typical cabinet is flush inset with a full face frame. I use 1-1/2" stiles and rails, beaded or not. On beaded inset, the bead amount is added to the 1-1/2" width, which is usually 3/8" with the 1/4" bead normally used. For overlay jobs, the reveal between all doors/drawers is 1/2". I use 1-1/2" for all stiles and mid rails, regardless of frame style. What sizes are the rest of you using? So far I haven't done any beaded frames. I have used the same stile and rail width on the first few inset jobs out of habit but it seems like they are too wide proportionally with the inset doors, so now I have gone to using all 1-1/4 inch stiles and rails and it looks better. For the overlay doors I have been making all perimeter rails and stiles 1-3/4 inches and all middle stile and rails at 2-1/4 inches, so I end up with 1-1/4 inch of all of the stiles and rails exposed with my 1/2 inch overlay doors. This door design ( SQ-0100-D001) can also be made with a vertical grain panel, in a choice of wood species and finishes, and the panel can be further customized with kerfs (or slots) cut into the face of the panel (as shown below).In the past I have been building exclusively overlay face frame cabinets, but lately I have been getting some inset door jobs. This design was selected for the interior doors of a beautiful home in Carmel, California. Sun Mountain calls this panel and sticking combination A1-MV (see illustration below). When combined with square sticking, the raised square panel creates a gap around the panel-a unique contemporary look with very clean lines. The stile and rail door shown at left is made of select rift-sawn White Oak, finished in Sun Mountain’s Poudre River glaze, and features a horizontal grain raised panel with a square (not rounded or “eased”) profile. Design elements frequently include a square top, one to three panels, square sticking, and flat (not raised) panels-which are also common elements of the “Craftsman-style.” However, other options exist for modern stile and rail doors. But modern doors can also be stile and rail construction. Modern doors are often flush construction, providing a simple design with minimal embellishments.
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